Strict Standards: Non-static method GKTemplateHelper::getInstance() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/templates/gk_blackandwhite/index.php on line 29

Strict Standards: Non-static method JURI::base() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/templates/gk_blackandwhite/libs/gk.template.helper.php on line 285

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getUser() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/templates/gk_blackandwhite/libs/menu/base.class.php on line 52

Strict Standards: Non-static method JLoader::import() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/loader.php on line 186

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getSession() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/factory.php on line 163

Strict Standards: Non-static method JSite::getMenu() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/templates/gk_blackandwhite/libs/menu/base.class.php on line 56

Strict Standards: Non-static method JApplication::getMenu() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/application.php on line 345

Strict Standards: Non-static method JLoader::import() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/loader.php on line 186

Strict Standards: Non-static method JMenu::getInstance() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 720

Strict Standards: Non-static method JError::isError() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 721

Strict Standards: Non-static method JRegistryFormat::getInstance() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/registry/registry.php on line 373

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFilterInput::clean() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/registry/format.php on line 45

Strict Standards: Non-static method JSite::getRouter() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/templates/gk_blackandwhite/libs/menu/base.class.php on line 142

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getConfig() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/application.php on line 372

Strict Standards: Non-static method JApplication::getRouter() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/application.php on line 374

Strict Standards: Non-static method JLoader::import() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/loader.php on line 186

Strict Standards: Non-static method JRouter::getInstance() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 674

Strict Standards: Non-static method JError::isError() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 675

Strict Standards: Non-static method JRegistryFormat::getInstance() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/registry/registry.php on line 373

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFilterInput::clean() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/registry/format.php on line 45

Strict Standards: Non-static method JURI::base() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/templates/gk_blackandwhite/libs/menu/base.class.php on line 151

Strict Standards: Non-static method JRegistryFormat::getInstance() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/registry/registry.php on line 373

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFilterInput::clean() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/registry/format.php on line 45

Strict Standards: Non-static method JSite::getRouter() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/templates/gk_blackandwhite/libs/menu/base.class.php on line 142

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getConfig() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/application.php on line 372

Strict Standards: Non-static method JApplication::getRouter() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/application.php on line 374

Strict Standards: Non-static method JLoader::import() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/loader.php on line 186

Strict Standards: Non-static method JRouter::getInstance() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 674

Strict Standards: Non-static method JError::isError() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 675

Strict Standards: Non-static method JRegistryFormat::getInstance() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/registry/registry.php on line 373

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFilterInput::clean() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/registry/format.php on line 45

Strict Standards: Non-static method JRoute::_() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/templates/gk_blackandwhite/libs/menu/base.class.php on line 153

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getApplication() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/methods.php on line 41

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getConfig() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/application.php on line 372

Strict Standards: Non-static method JLoader::import() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/loader.php on line 186

Strict Standards: Non-static method JRouter::getInstance() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 674

Strict Standards: Non-static method JError::isError() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 675

Strict Standards: Non-static method JSite::getMenu() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/router.php on line 419

Strict Standards: Non-static method JApplication::getMenu() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/application.php on line 345

Strict Standards: Non-static method JLoader::import() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/loader.php on line 186

Strict Standards: Non-static method JMenu::getInstance() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 720

Strict Standards: Non-static method JError::isError() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 721

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getConfig() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/plugins/system/jfrouter.php on line 532

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getConfig() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/plugins/system/jfrouter.php on line 542

Strict Standards: Non-static method plgSystemJFRouter::procesCustomBuildRule() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/plugins/system/jfrouter.php on line 617

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getApplication() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/router.php on line 401

Strict Standards: Non-static method JSite::getMenu() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/router.php on line 295

Strict Standards: Non-static method JApplication::getMenu() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/application.php on line 345

Strict Standards: Non-static method JLoader::import() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/loader.php on line 186

Strict Standards: Non-static method JMenu::getInstance() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 720

Strict Standards: Non-static method JError::isError() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 721

Strict Standards: Non-static method JSite::getMenu() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/components/com_content/router.php on line 19

Strict Standards: Non-static method JApplication::getMenu() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/application.php on line 345

Strict Standards: Non-static method JLoader::import() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/loader.php on line 186

Strict Standards: Non-static method JMenu::getInstance() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 720

Strict Standards: Non-static method JError::isError() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 721

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getApplication() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/router.php on line 90

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getConfig() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 394

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getConfig() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 394

Strict Standards: Non-static method JURI::base() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/router.php on line 109

Strict Standards: Non-static method JRegistryFormat::getInstance() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/registry/registry.php on line 373

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFilterInput::clean() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/registry/format.php on line 45

Strict Standards: Non-static method JSite::getRouter() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/templates/gk_blackandwhite/libs/menu/base.class.php on line 142

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getConfig() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/application.php on line 372

Strict Standards: Non-static method JApplication::getRouter() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/application.php on line 374

Strict Standards: Non-static method JLoader::import() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/loader.php on line 186

Strict Standards: Non-static method JRouter::getInstance() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 674

Strict Standards: Non-static method JError::isError() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 675

Strict Standards: Non-static method JRegistryFormat::getInstance() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/registry/registry.php on line 373

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFilterInput::clean() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/registry/format.php on line 45

Strict Standards: Non-static method JRoute::_() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/templates/gk_blackandwhite/libs/menu/base.class.php on line 153

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getApplication() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/methods.php on line 41

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getConfig() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/application.php on line 372

Strict Standards: Non-static method JLoader::import() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/loader.php on line 186

Strict Standards: Non-static method JRouter::getInstance() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 674

Strict Standards: Non-static method JError::isError() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 675

Strict Standards: Non-static method JSite::getMenu() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/router.php on line 419

Strict Standards: Non-static method JApplication::getMenu() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/application.php on line 345

Strict Standards: Non-static method JLoader::import() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/loader.php on line 186

Strict Standards: Non-static method JMenu::getInstance() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 720

Strict Standards: Non-static method JError::isError() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 721

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getConfig() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/plugins/system/jfrouter.php on line 532

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getConfig() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/plugins/system/jfrouter.php on line 542

Strict Standards: Non-static method plgSystemJFRouter::procesCustomBuildRule() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/plugins/system/jfrouter.php on line 617

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getApplication() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/router.php on line 401

Strict Standards: Non-static method JSite::getMenu() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/router.php on line 295

Strict Standards: Non-static method JApplication::getMenu() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/application.php on line 345

Strict Standards: Non-static method JLoader::import() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/loader.php on line 186

Strict Standards: Non-static method JMenu::getInstance() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 720

Strict Standards: Non-static method JError::isError() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 721

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getApplication() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/router.php on line 90

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getConfig() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 394

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getConfig() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 394

Strict Standards: Non-static method JURI::base() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/router.php on line 109

Strict Standards: Non-static method JRegistryFormat::getInstance() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/registry/registry.php on line 373

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFilterInput::clean() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/registry/format.php on line 45

Strict Standards: Non-static method JSite::getRouter() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/templates/gk_blackandwhite/libs/menu/base.class.php on line 142

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getConfig() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/application.php on line 372

Strict Standards: Non-static method JApplication::getRouter() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/application.php on line 374

Strict Standards: Non-static method JLoader::import() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/loader.php on line 186

Strict Standards: Non-static method JRouter::getInstance() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 674

Strict Standards: Non-static method JError::isError() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 675

Strict Standards: Non-static method JRegistryFormat::getInstance() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/registry/registry.php on line 373

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFilterInput::clean() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/registry/format.php on line 45

Strict Standards: Non-static method JRoute::_() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/templates/gk_blackandwhite/libs/menu/base.class.php on line 153

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getApplication() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/methods.php on line 41

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getConfig() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/application.php on line 372

Strict Standards: Non-static method JLoader::import() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/loader.php on line 186

Strict Standards: Non-static method JRouter::getInstance() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 674

Strict Standards: Non-static method JError::isError() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 675

Strict Standards: Non-static method JSite::getMenu() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/router.php on line 419

Strict Standards: Non-static method JApplication::getMenu() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/application.php on line 345

Strict Standards: Non-static method JLoader::import() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/loader.php on line 186

Strict Standards: Non-static method JMenu::getInstance() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 720

Strict Standards: Non-static method JError::isError() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 721

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getConfig() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/plugins/system/jfrouter.php on line 532

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getConfig() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/plugins/system/jfrouter.php on line 542

Strict Standards: Non-static method plgSystemJFRouter::procesCustomBuildRule() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/plugins/system/jfrouter.php on line 617

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getApplication() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/router.php on line 401

Strict Standards: Non-static method JSite::getMenu() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/router.php on line 295

Strict Standards: Non-static method JApplication::getMenu() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/application.php on line 345

Strict Standards: Non-static method JLoader::import() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/loader.php on line 186

Strict Standards: Non-static method JMenu::getInstance() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 720

Strict Standards: Non-static method JError::isError() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 721

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getApplication() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/router.php on line 90

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getConfig() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 394

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getConfig() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 394

Strict Standards: Non-static method JURI::base() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/router.php on line 109

Strict Standards: Non-static method JRegistryFormat::getInstance() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/registry/registry.php on line 373

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFilterInput::clean() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/registry/format.php on line 45

Strict Standards: Non-static method JSite::getRouter() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/templates/gk_blackandwhite/libs/menu/base.class.php on line 142

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getConfig() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/application.php on line 372

Strict Standards: Non-static method JApplication::getRouter() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/application.php on line 374

Strict Standards: Non-static method JLoader::import() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/loader.php on line 186

Strict Standards: Non-static method JRouter::getInstance() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 674

Strict Standards: Non-static method JError::isError() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 675

Strict Standards: Non-static method JRegistryFormat::getInstance() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/registry/registry.php on line 373

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFilterInput::clean() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/registry/format.php on line 45

Strict Standards: Non-static method JRoute::_() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/templates/gk_blackandwhite/libs/menu/base.class.php on line 153

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getApplication() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/methods.php on line 41

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getConfig() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/application.php on line 372

Strict Standards: Non-static method JLoader::import() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/loader.php on line 186

Strict Standards: Non-static method JRouter::getInstance() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 674

Strict Standards: Non-static method JError::isError() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 675

Strict Standards: Non-static method JSite::getMenu() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/router.php on line 419

Strict Standards: Non-static method JApplication::getMenu() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/application.php on line 345

Strict Standards: Non-static method JLoader::import() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/loader.php on line 186

Strict Standards: Non-static method JMenu::getInstance() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 720

Strict Standards: Non-static method JError::isError() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/libraries/joomla/application/application.php on line 721

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getConfig() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/plugins/system/jfrouter.php on line 532

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getConfig() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/plugins/system/jfrouter.php on line 542

Strict Standards: Non-static method plgSystemJFRouter::procesCustomBuildRule() should not be called statically in /home/dl12033/public_html/plugins/system/jfrouter.php on line 617

Strict Standards: Non-static method JFactory::getApplication() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/router.php on line 401

Strict Standards: Non-static method JSite::getMenu() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/router.php on line 295

Strict Standards: Non-static method JApplication::getMenu() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /home/dl12033/public_html/includes/application.php on line 345

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Σαββατοκύριακο στην Ευρωστίνη

Εικοσιτέσσερις ώρες που μετράνε σαν όνειρο αιωνιότητας στο πιο παρθένο βουνίσιο τοπίο της Ορεινής Κορινθίας

Δεν είχα ακούσει ποτέ το όνομά της. Στην Ορεινή Κορινθία δεν είχα πατήσει το πόδι μου. Φίλοι μου είπαν για το Αρχοντικό Καραβά, έναν μικρό ξενώνα στην αγκαλιά και την ερημιά του βουνού, τον νοικιάζεις, λέει, με την παρέα σου-μέχρι έξι καλοί χωράνε-και για ένα Σαββατοκύριακο βιώνεις τη φαντασίωση ενός δικού σου εξοχικού, όπως το άφησε η προ-προγιαγιά σου που το έζησε προικώο, κάπου εκεί στις αρχές του προ-περασμένου αιώνα. Καθώς τα αδέλφια Καραβά εκτός από τον ξενώνα έχουν και μια μικρή βιοτεχνία που φτιάχνει αγνά σπιτικά ζυμαρικά, σκέφτηκα να συνδυάσω την ξενάγηση στην “ευζυμ” με τη χάρη του βουνού, που εδώ, από την πίσω πλευρά του Φενεού και της Ζαρούχλας, διατηρεί μια παρθένα, απάτητη γοητεία, στην παρένθεση της τουριστικής ανάπτυξης.
Τα 145 περίπου χιλιόμετρα από την Αθήνα, τώρα που μετράς τα έξοδα της βενζίνης και τον ανύπαρκτο χρόνο σου, ήταν αρκετά για να ψήσουν την Ιωάννα και κολλητή μου, να βάλει το Ford και τη γοητευτική παρέα της για ένα λειψό Σαββατοκύριακο ως το ορεινό όνειρο.
Με τα παιδιά που θα μας έδειχναν το δρόμο του ξενώνα, μιας και το βουνό δεν διαθέτει διεύθυνση και τηλέφωνο, δώσαμε ραντεβού στο Δερβένι. Και κει, με τη φίλη, λίγο σαν χαθήκαμε στη μετάφραση. Διότι τί δουλιά έχει το ραντεβού πλάι στα κρυστάλλινα νερά του Κορινθιακού όταν εμείς φτιαχτήκαμε για οξιές, ομίχλες και έλατα; Στα 20 λεπτά της διαδρομής μέχρι τη Ζάχολη, το τοπίο αλλάζει δραματικά. Διάσπαρτα σπιτάκια, χωράφια κατακόκκινα από το χρώμα των ώριμων λωτών, πλατάνια, πέτρα και θέα αφ’υψηλού, το βουνό σ’όλο του το απάτητο, απόκοσμο μεγαλείο.
Η Ευρωστίνη ή Ζάχολη, που στην ουσία δεν είναι καν χωριό αλλά μερικά πανάρχαια γραφικά πέτρινα σπίτια, δεν έχει να σου παρουσιάσει τις κοσμικότητες ενός κλασικού Σαββατόβραδου. Έχει, όμως, θεϊκά παϊδάκια-αλήθεια, γιατί ποτέ δεν έχουν την ίδια γεύση στην πόλη;-, φασολάδα με τα νόστιμα φασόλια της περιοχής, πίτα με σπιτικό φύλλο, ψημμένο ψωμάκι στα κάρβουνα και την απίστευτη πατάτα που κόβει στο χέρι και τηγανίζει η 85χρονη κυρα-Ζωή, που μόνη μαζί με το γιό της κουμαντάρει την ταβέρνα «Κοραής» στην μικρή πλατεία του χωριού. Κι όταν το αίμα ζεσταθεί από το χύμα κρασί και τη φλόγα του τζακιού, επιστρέφεις στο ρουστίκ σκηνικό του ξενώνα, για επιτραπέζια, μπιρίμπα ή κουβέντα ως αργά τη νύχτα με σπιτικό τσίπουρο.

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Μια Κυριακή στη φύση
Ξυπνώντας στην αγκαλιά του βουνού, δυό δρόμοι ανοίγονται μπροστά σου. Αυτός της περιπέτειας, που θα σε ξεναγήσει από την άλλη πλευρά του βουνού στο Φενεό και τη Ζαρούχλα ή μια χαλαρή μέρα στα αξιοθέατα της περιοχής. Εμείς διαλέξαμε τη δεύτερη εκδοχή.
Ο Αη-Γιώργης του 1811, στην είσοδο του χωριού, με τους 17 του τρούλους, είναι μια από τις ιστορικότερες εκκλησιές της Χελιδορέας. Αξίζει τη στάση για να μυρίσεις από την αυλή του το βουνό, να το δεις απέναντί σου σαν αγκαλιά, ν’αλλάζει χίλια χρώματα.
Ο περίπατος στο Ρέμα των Μύλων, μια ήπια διαδρομή για κάθε ανειδίκευτο, μια απίστευτη διαδρομή στη σκιά των πανύψηλων δέντρων, με μικρούς καταρράκτες και λίμνες που μπλέκουν τον κελαρυστό τους ήχο με το κελάηδημα των πουλιών. Μια ζεν πορεία σαν κάθαρση, που σε καθαρίζει από την πόλη και το στρες της, απίστευτο κι όμως αληθινό, μιάμιση ώρα δρόμο από την πρωτεύουσα.
Κι αφού τελειώσεις τον περίπατο ανάβοντας ένα κερί στο πανέμορφο βυζαντινό εκκλησάκι της Αγίας Παρασκευής, παίρνεις το αυτοκίνητο για μια επίσκεψη στην Παναγία των Καταφυγίων, δέκα λεπτά από το χωριό. Ένα εκκλησάκι σμιλεμένο στο βράχο, σκαρφαλωμένο σ’ένα μαγικό αγνάντιο, απέναντι η θέα σου κόβει την ανάσα, το βουνό σε όλο του το μεγαλείο, στα πόδια του η θάλασσα.
Στο μεταξύ, αποχαιρετώντας το χωριό, ψωνίζεις φασόλια, λάδι, ζυμαρικά και βότανα από τον Κοραή-ή αλλιώς κέντρο του κόσμου της Ευρωστίνης-παίρνεις πακέτο και μια γίδα βραστή ή κανένα μαγειρευτό που έχει μαγειρέψει η κυρα-Ζωή για την κυριακάτικη πελατεία της, κι είσαι πίσω στην πόλη πριν νυχτώσει.


Εικοσιτέσσερις ώρες που μας φάνηκαν σαν μήνας αναψυχής στον βουνίσιο αέρα!

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